Fins

There are many ways to use the set-up at Fins, a compact retail shop and casual restaurant tucked into a strip mall in Bicton.

Graze the take-home counter and chat to the team about the best way to cook a mangrove jack fillet at home, or get advice about whether a dill sauce would work with a bit of goldband snapper.

Another option would be to choose a fillet, walk it a few steps to the left, and have it grilled, battered or crumbed by the kitchen team to be eaten at a bar counter or outdoor table, with a schooner of Swan Lager or Stone and Wood.

But perhaps the best reason to visit is to dive a bit deeper into the menu’s truly special stuff. Dreamed up by chef Seth James (formerly of Wills Domain and Frui Momento) you’ll find crayssants (that’s a crayfish croissant), an oozy, chunky tuna cheeseburger and a sneaky little octopus hot dog—more like a slider—which sees a crisp-crumbed tentacle painted with kimchi kewpie mayo stripes and curled into a little bullet of a bun.

It’s all clever, courageous and straight up delicious. Fish, but make it fun.