2024 WINE AWARDS

This 2022 Deep Woods ‘G2’ Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is a profound wine, one that speaks eloquently of both Margaret River and of its variety. In a line-up of the top 50 wines in Western Australia, it stood head and shoulders above the rest for its exacting balance of supple fruit and pliable tannin. It is fresh and detailed and delivers the uncompromising experience that is singular to great cabernet sauvignon. The warm, ideal conditions of the 2022 vintage in Margaret River, expressed via this cooler site, put the final feather in its cap. This is a wine to collect and to cellar, but most importantly, it is a wine to drink and enjoy. What a thrill it is.

It is often said that great wines are made in the vineyard, and Hunter Smith proves that to be true at Frankland Estate through his dedication to organic viticulture and enduring focus on quality. Certified organic in 2009, the vines have significantly benefitted from the estate’s evolution in philosophy, finding their own regulated balance in the vineyard and becoming more adaptable to the seasons. The evolution of wine style at the estate is partly credited to the vines’ ability to hold the pristine fruit later into the season, allowing the winemaking to achieve better depth and concentration of flavour, which we all enjoy in the finished wines. With quality front of mind, Smith’s ongoing pursuit of excellence in the vineyard is something to behold at this WA touchstone.

“Wow. This would have to be one of the best fortified Merlot Carignanss I’ve ever had,” were the words of one of our esteemed judges when we tasted this wine back in August. An intriguing drink that left us spellbound with its silky-sweet texture and remarkable intensity. It offers layers of milk chocolate, ripe dark fruit and spiced plum compote, all delivered with impressive concentration and a long, juicy finish. Liquid Rocky Road, if you will, and a total pleasure.

Dream Bird Wines made a remarkable impression this year with its entries across various categories. The grenache stood out in particular – a juicy, expressive wine with a vibrancy and purity that immediately captivated all the judges. Slippery, bouncy texture with energy and intent to burn. Owner and winemaker Kym Carr’s meticulous approach to sourcing high-quality fruit and thoughtful winemaking results in wines that are not only incredibly drinkable but also eloquently reflective of their variety and origin.

For five generations, Glenarty Road has been cared for by the McDonald family, who honour the land with a steadfast commitment to sustainability. The 240-acre estate offers an immersive journey that connects visitors directly to the environment where the wines and produce are cultivated. Guests can engage with the property in various ways, from foraging and wine tasting alongside the farmers and makers to indulging in a five-course tasting menu in the dining room or garden. Each experience is designed to educate and highlight the regenerative practices employed across the farm, gardens and vineyard. The team’s talent and commitment are highlighted in every plate, bowl and glass that hits the table. This is winemaking, farming and regional cooking at its finest. A superlative experience.

Five wines in the Top 25 makes for 20 per cent of the total haul: that’s a big deal for a single region, let alone a single person. Julian Langworthy is responsible for those five, the three Deep Woods Estate wines – including our Wine of the Year – as well as the Nocturne Wines ‘SR’ Chardonnay and the Goon Tycoons ‘Red Headed Step Child’. Langworthy is a prolific winemaker, whose jocular nature is only surpassed by his prowess and deep understanding of the Margaret River wine region. As if being chief winemaker at the family-owned yet significantly sized Fogarty Wine Group wasn’t enough, Langworthy has a successful label of his own, Nocturne. With a focus on chardonnay, cabernet and rosé (he did crown himself the “Prince of Pink” one year), Nocturne has found its way onto wine lists and into quality wine shops around this country. Goon Tycoons, meanwhile, is the project he shares with John (viticulturist) Fogarty and Mark (cash counter) Fogarty, focusing on a range of distinctly tongue-in-cheek wines that deliver the (seriously good) goods. He’s a busy guy, he’s a clever guy, he’s our Winemaker of the Year in 2024.

If you were to judge 270 wines with their labels revealed, you’d surely attempt to award an array of regions, producers and varieties, so that a little bit of everything got a little bit of something. It is a natural tendency, and it’s why wine shows – which are judged blind – will often display extraordinary clean sweeps by some producers. Sometimes, it’s just your year, your show, your week. There’s an unpredictable beauty in that. This year, the dominance of Deep Woods Estate was undeniable. With two of the top five wines, and a total of three wines in the Top 25, the judges were left with little choice but to award Deep Woods with a thoroughly deserved Producer of the Year award. The bigger the company, the taller the poppy, and when it comes to tall poppies and wine awards, Deep Woods is one of the loftiest in this country.

To be a single vineyard wine is not a thing to behold or celebrate in and of itself. The quality of the site is all-important, and indeed, the vintage helps to shape its expression. But for a single vineyard wine to succeed, the stars must align: the season must suit, the viticultural decisions leading up to that year must support the vintage that evolves. There really is no room for error or vagary, meaning that when they’re on, they’re on. “The [Gibb Road] vineyard is a pretty interesting one,” says Langworthy. “It is in Treeton [eastern Margaret River], and it’s a cool site, so it really performs in warm vintages.” The reason this wine is so special is that it leaps beyond the traditional paradigm of Margaret River cabernet as we know it, offering drinkers a texturally fine, perfectly resolved wine, which is so specifically and alluringly of place. An unmissable cabernet experience.

We live in a time where the climate is changing, becoming ever more unpredictable, and the onus of protecting our children’s future feels laid at our feet. The responsibility, then, of celebrating estates who prioritise the environment via land health, biodiversity in vineyards and the fostering of a sustainable, regenerative and viable future is vitally important. For this reason, when we were reviewing our Top 25, the award for Best Organic Wine simply had to be awarded to Frankland Estate’s ‘Isolation Ridge’ Riesling. Not only is the wine a texturally engaging and sleek masterpiece from a lovely and mild season, but it also represents a family whose singular focus on organics is nationally revered. Their approach to the environment and viticulture can be an example for all.

This monastrell has graced the Top 25 more than once over the years, signifying consistent quality and appeal, and making it a noteworthy winner of this year’s regional award for Geographe. Green Door is lauded for its meticulous attention to detail in every aspect, from vineyard management to the winemaking process. A focus on techniques including fermentation in amphora, extended skin maceration and careful use of whole bunches all contribute to the wine’s distinct character. Yet again, the ‘Amphora’ Monastrell shined brightly in its category, offering a high-toned and fragrant expression of this widely diverse variety. Delicate earthy complexity with rosella, rhubarb and sweet cardamon, energetic acidity and a smattering of fine cocoa-powder tannins.

How brilliant to see a fortified wine being recognised as the regional winner from Swan Valley. The region has long been a champion of fortified wine styles in this country, and it’s fitting that it gets the celebration it deserves. John Griffiths and his wife Jane Micallef established Faber Vineyard in 1997, focusing on the traditional varieties that the region is known for, including verdelho, shiraz and brown muscat. Over the past 25 years, the Faber wines have received high praise for their expressive and full character, and the Liqueur Muscat is a standout. It has an intense sweetness and viscosity, with a rich flavour profile of raisin, honey, dried fig and candied citrus peel. Despite its luscious nature, the wine’s sweetness is adeptly balanced by warm spirit, resulting in a long and clean finish.

Cabernet sauvignon from Deep Woods is nothing short of monumental, representing a collection of wines that exude greatness and deserve the highest distinction. The ‘G2’ is a quintessential example of modern cabernet sauvignon from Margaret River, demonstrating a level of craftsmanship that speaks volumes. What sets the ‘G2’ apart is its immediate drinkability; the wine’s freshness and alluring perfume are compelling, while its powerful concentration delivers immense satisfaction with every sip. The tannins are masterfully managed, offering a structured and framed palate experience. This wine has the potential to age gracefully, rewarding those with patience; however, its shiny, vivid fruit and modern, stylish feel make it incredibly hard to resist now. Simply put, it’s insanely delicious.

The Great Southern is responsible for five wines in our Top 25, and the 2023 ‘Isolation Ridge’ Riesling from Frankland Estate is the region’s highest placement. Consequently, we were only too happy to award this beautiful wine with the regional award for the Great Southern, given the pleasure and enjoyment it offered judges. What a wine this is, and as if we needed any further encouragement, the 2023 season was a climax of conditions: cool, dry, long and mild. When the Great Southern is viewed through this lens, it’s pretty much as good as it gets.

Chateau June-Jerome, located in Manjimup, crafts a select range of wines that capture the fertile essence of the Southern Forests. ‘The Axeman’ exemplifies the abundant fruit intensity and richness that we see in the region: red and dark fruits with cacao, roasted plum and vanilla pod. It’s sticky and pleasurable with a clean lick of acid that retains freshness. Drink with chocolate to complement or salty blue cheese to contrast. Or just drink it. 

‘Granitis’ originates from a vineyard in the northern Perth Hills, where granite-rich soils give the wine its name and unique character. Now in its third release, ‘Granitis’ has consistently delivered high quality each year. And the 2023 vintage, benefitting from a near-perfect growing season, is no exception. It continues to reflect the distinct terroir of its site, showcasing the exceptional conditions and craftsmanship behind each bottle.

Inky, mineral and plump with intense dark, potent fruits and warm spice. The tannins are fine and sandy with a slightly tactile, sticky feel. A smidgeon of viognier adds perfume and poise, contributing to a layered, plentiful wine of great detail. An iron hand in a velvet glove.